Nicki's Central West End Guide

k. hall "popping-up" on Maryland Plaza

k. hall, a Brentwood-based company that specializes in aromatic bath, body and home care products is opening a "pop-up" shop on Maryland Plaza next door to Moris Fashions. I snapped a photo from the sidewalk of the outside this morning and unfortunately wound up with lots of glare. Love these sunny days, just not for photography.

When I peeked into the space, there was a young woman stocking shelves with large bottles of lotion and other handsome-looking products. She said that they hope to be open by the end of next week.

I remember k. hall when Kelley Hall-Barr and her husband John Barr first started in business in an out-of-the-way location in UCity on Midland. As the business grew, it moved to a larger space on Manchester Road in Brentwood. Let's hope k. hall has a successful run as a "pop-up" in the CWE and the Maryland Plaza location becomes a permanent spot for the successful hometown business.

In response to a comment posted below Kelly Barr wrote, "We are going to carry flax and "free people" clothing...more and more items will come in over the next few months."

k. hall opened today, May 17 at 28 Maryland Plaza. The shop looks fabulous! Hours are Mon. - Sat. 11 to 7, Sun. 12 to 5.

 

A.J. Brewington's 26th Anniversary!

Last month A.J. Brewington, proprietor of Brewington Art & Interiors, celebrated her 26th year in business. She was in a philosophic frame of mind the day I visited her shop at 4814 Washington Avenue. (As a matter of fact, I visit her shop most days as she occupies a second floor space in the Pierce Arrow Building, a property that Jim and I own.)

To explain her rather gutsy decision to move her shop from a smaller street-level space on McPherson to a second floor 2500 s.f. loft space with no street presence she said,  "I try not to be complacent but am constantly redefining what my business is. It's always evolving and changing. One wants to be at a point in your life where you can be influenced and inspired. Since I've moved (in December, 2010), I've never enjoyed my business more."  A.J. considers her current space to be a big-city-sophisticated approach to retail in St. Louis. She feels she is her business, it doesn't matter where she is. Her long-time clients, creative people with imagination, follow her wherever she goes.

What you won't see in this post is a photograph of A.J., who is surprisingly camera-shy given her larger-than-life personality. The quote on her website pretty much sums up why there is never a dull moment when you stop by Brewington's for a visit.

 "Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather skid in sideways shouting 'What a ride!' "

Her first store in the St. Louis area was in Webster Groves where she was a member of a co-op consisting of 12 antique dealers. From there she moved to a space on Rosebury in Clayton where she sold traditional antiques. Her second store in the DeMun District, Geronimo's Cadillac, specialized in Mid-Century Modern. She moved to McPherson in the 90s, where her shop carried an eclectic mix of both antique and Mid-Century pieces.

The vintage bronze swans in the photo (above) have been sold since I took the photo. A 1950's Italian plant stand (left), $375, holds a mercury glass gazing ball, $65. The contemporary 4-panel screen at the rear is covered with maps, $300, and the vase on the stand (right) is $475. The three antique wooden columns in front of the window were originally used as props at Dillards, $1500. Sitting on the window ledge (and barely visible) is a pair of French-style folk art roosters, $75 each.

Selling art has become a large part of A.J.'s business in recent years. She currently represents three artists, internationally-known Edward Boccia (whose painting is shown in the photo above), Jim Pegg, and French artist Claude Rene Krutchmar. Boccia is Professor Emeritus at Washington University's School of Fine Art where he retired from teaching painting in 1986. A.J. told me that the late Morton May, the philanthropic chairman of the May Department Stores, was a huge Boccia collector who donated a large part of his collection to SLU. Word is that SLU is going to exhibit their collection of Boccia's paintings in 2013.

Other items in the photo are contemporary mercury glass lamps with silk shades, $350, 8 vintage waterford grapefruits bowls on the tray, $585, and a silver mercury glass gazing ball, which can be used as decoration in the garden, $38.

On the showroom floor is a contemporary Ligne Roset sectional that includes two sofas and an ottoman that came from a local estate, $2500. The handsome silk patchwork pillows on the sofa are $60 for the pair.                   

Around the store there are gifts galore in many price ranges from crystal candlesticks, $32 (not shown), to the silver pieces right. I have been noticing all the new babies in the neighborhood, which is why these two sterling silver porringers (right) caught my eye, $95 and $45. The sterling silver bowl (top) is $125, and the antique sterling silver serving spoon is $95. 

 

Love the contented smile on the little bronze dog at rest (left) by a Santa Fe artist, $400.

 

 

 

 

Brewington's Art & interiors, 4814 Washington, Suite 230, Tues. through Sat. 10:30 to 6 p.m., (314) 361-5373.

Bike Shop Coming to Euclid!

In the onward and upward department, it was exciting to discover that a bike shop is about to open in the neighborhood. This morning, I noticed a sign in the window at 324 N. Euclid, in the space below Lemon Spalon and next to Wolfgang's Pet Stop, indicating that "Mike's Bikes" is "coming soon."

A bike shop has been on many people's wish list of businesses or services missing from the mix in the neighborhood for years. Now at last that wish is about to be fulfilled.

The website listed on the sign in the window appears to be a work-in-progress. As soon as I get more information, I'll pass it along.

Mikes Bikes, opening soon at 324 N. Euclid.

L Photographie lands in the CWE

I wish I could take credit for the gorgeous photographs in this post, which were provided by Kristie Cromie, on the right above, co-owner with Liz Sloan, middle, of L Photographie.  Also pictured is L Photographie's Kate Hayes, left. You'll notice a huge bump-up in quality and styling on this page, and you may also realize that this post is yet another about a female-owned business located in the CWE, a theme that is beginning to have a familiar ring to it.

Liz Sloan had been an event manager in the media world before switching to photography in 2003. She serendipitously ran into Kristie Cromie, a friend from Mizzou, in their Soulard neighborhood. The friends had lost touch with each other, but decided to join forces and form L Photographie after that chance meeting. Kristie had been working as a graphic designer for the Switch Agency for 9 years, and had been dabbling in photography as a hobby. After Kristie became a mother, she decided to refocus her attention from wedding photography to concentrate on family portraits. That's when Kate Hayes, a photographer they met at a Bridal Fair, came onboard. When I observed that they all seemed to get along so well, Kristie said they think they mesh so beautifully because all three are the only girl in a family of boys, which meant they had to be tough and learn to get along. 

L Photographie is located in a building filled with small, creative entrepreneurs at 449 N. Euclid, above. Since all three women are residents of the City of St. Louis they wanted to keep their business within the city limits. "There is a perceived value to being in the CWE," Liz said. The neighborhood has a 'boutique feel' to it--and we consider ourselves to be a boutique company--it's upscale, hip, well-maintained, and has a good eclectic mix...it's just cooler to be in the CWE!" Sounds like a great tag line for an ad for the CWE to me!

When I visited the trio of photographers (shown sitting at their workstations above) Kristie said that their clients tend to be with them full circle--for 5-7 years and beyond--from engagement photos, through the wedding, and "love the dress" sessions (after the wedding, the bride wears "the dress" in a completely different way). A few years later, there are maternity and baby photos, family portraits, and perhaps a high school photo in the future.

Two of the partners are mothers of young children and try to balance family life with work, but there are still many midnight editing sessions, especially during the spring and fall. Wedding season typically spans mid-March through mid-November and even New Year's Eve.

Photography sessions include archival-quality portraits, which the photographers edit themselves, digital files, custom framing, and custom-designed albums, which are exclusive to L Photographie (not available on do-it-yourself websites such as Snapfish). Sometimes clients will say they only want to order a disc with photographs, not the proofs. L Photographie provides the proofs anyway. As Kristie said, "As professional photographers we want to keep the tradition alive and take our work to its final stage. Who knows what the technology will be in twenty years, and if discs will even be around?" When you have the actual photographs, you and your children can always pull them out to enjoy for years to come.

Wedding photography by L Photographie starts at $3,000; family photography sessions, including new baby photos, run anywhere from $700 to $1500. Kristie said that the best time to take new baby photos--which can take as much as five hours--is during the first nine days of life. That's when babies sleep most of the time (tell that to a new parent!), and are easy to "style," i.e. dress and move around.

Liz allowed that every event is "once in a lifetime," so you may as well hire a professional. I know that the photography industry is going through a huge transition, but hearing Liz describe what has happened helped clarify some of the reasons. Cameras are so good now that anyone can set up a business without actually "going into business," i.e. renting a studio, paying taxes, etc. I learned that there is a term, "shoot and burns," for this type of hobbyist, which hurts the industry as a whole.

The remaining photos in the post show a series of vignettes taken in the light-filled space L Photographie occupies on the second floor of the Consulate Building, above and below.

L Photographie, 449 N. Euclid, by appointment only. Weddings: Liz Sloan (314) 265-3786, Kate Hayes (618) 910-8671; Portraits & family photography: Kristie Cromie (314) 503-7719.

Libby's adds another 5

When I stopped by to say hello to Debbie Gibbens, the proprietor of Libby's at 4742 McPherson, she said she had just renewed the lease on her CWE location for an additional five years. Libby's opened almost three years ago (see first post here) in the handsome space formerly occupied for many years by Bissinger's, now located on Maryland Plaza.

At one time Debbie and her husband lived on Westminster Place and then moved to St. Charles before locating to Eufaula, Oklahoma, the site of the original Libby's. A third store is located in Tulsa. Her strong attraction to beautiful buildings is the reason there's a Libby's in the Central West End. When she and her husband were in town for a wedding, sitting outside Llywelyn's having a beer,  she spied the "for lease" sign in the window across the street. Before her husband knew what happened she had signed a lease and was ordering clothing for a Libby's in St. Louis.

Her employees, who seem to have just shown up at propitious times (she has never conducted an interview), all live in the neighborhood. Rose Sullivan was walking her dog by the store just before it opened, and stopped in to ask Debbie if there was anything she could do to help. Debbie asked if she knew how to operate a steamer. Rose didn't, but wound up steaming clothing for hours and has been on the sales staff ever since. For the past few years I assumed that neighbor Hannah Roth just liked hanging out at the shop (it is that kind of place) with her Japanese Chins, Miles and Ella. The day I visited Debbie I learned that she works there part-time.

Debbie goes to market in Dallas or Las Vegas six times a year to buy for her three shops. She looks for loose free-flowing clothing--without zippers--for women over 35 who are of average body size and want to dress with an artistic flair.  Debbie buys differently for the CWE location than for her stores in Oklahoma, as people tend to dress up more in St. Louis. There are larger, dressier weddings here, more people attending graduations, and out-of-towners who come back every year to stock up on the latest fashions when they are in town for Cardinals games.

Dresses at Libby's are priced in the very reasonable $50 to $80 range. Debbie treats the sleeveless knit turquoise dress, $50, shown above, as a canvas over which to layer flowing tops, to dress it up or down for the occasion. The multi-colored knit "Adore" top, $176, shown with the dress in the photo above is one of the more expensive pieces in the store. 

The open-weave jacket, right, shown over the same style dress as above but in black, is $68. It also comes in a soft grey.
The store stocks lots of cool-looking linen pieces for summer, as well as some unusual sandals. There is a also a large selection of costume jewelry in the display cases. The multi-strand necklace shown with the outfit  right is $35.

 

 

 

 

 

 Libby's carries eco-friendly gossamer-thin silk scarves that fly out of the store at $32, left.

 

 

 

 

 

Capri-length summer leggings with rhinestone buttons come in brown, grey, turquoise and white, $34. There is also a selection of full and half slips in black and white that are cleverly "2 or 3 lengths in 1," $20 to $30, i.e. you can actually cut them to the length that works for you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brightly colored form-fitting "jeggings," a cross between jeans and leggings come in sizes 4 to 14, $88. They can be worn with a long top for more coverage. These quickly sell out each time they are reordered. More sizes and colors are on the way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A very snappy leather iPad or Kindle case, $52, right, makes me wish I had one or the other of those devices to slip inside.

 

 

 

 

Besides juggling three Libby's (named after one of her dog's) Debbie Gibbens runs an Italian restaurant, called The Stuffed Olive, located on a lake in Eufaula. Why a restaurant, and why call it The Stuffed Olive, I asked? Again, because she fell in love with the real estate---and her mother's an Olive. "It's really cute," Debbie said, "the former haberdashery is all cedar and in the summer the sailboats go by on the lake (the largest man-made lake in the U.S.)...it was hard to resist." We're just glad she found a space that was hard to resist right here in the CWE. It's great place to shop, fun to visit, and now, with five more years to look forward to, Libby's has become a fixture in the neighborhood!

Libby's, The Picasso of Women's Clothing, 4742 McPherson, Tues.- Sat. 11 to 6, Sun. 11 to 4, (314) 454-3003.

Meet designer Emily Brady Koplar

Emily Wai Ming Brady (Koplar) was interested in clothing starting at a very young age and would sketch outfits she would like to wear. She was encouraged by her parents with the gift of her first sewing machine at age 11. She wore the free-spirited clothing she made to a Kirkwood grade school, but when she transferred to MICDS---with its stricter dress code---her designs were saved for proms and working on costumes for school plays.  Her artistic family includes an Irish father who plays the piano, and a Chinese mother who Emily says has the vision in the family. Both encouraged Emily and her brother, an artist who works for Amazon in Seattle, in their artistic endeavors.

While this is a post about Emily, I imagine you're curious about her connection to the Koplars, a family that has been prominent in the Central West End for four generations. Emily has been married for three years to Bob Koplar, a lawyer who is working on the successful relaunch of the family's Voltron property,  a TV series that originally aired in syndication in the mid-1980s.

While clothing design was her passion, practical Emily majored in Economics at Boston University where she also took classes in costume production. After graduation she earned an AAS degree from Parsons School of Design in New York.  She then became a designer for The May Company's private Valerie Stevens label, and then worked for Aeropostale. Last year Emily started her own clothing design company under the label, "Wai Ming," which is her middle name, meaning "gift of light."

Emily creates her designs in a home studio. She hires professionals for pattern and sample-making and uses interns from WU's Sam Fox School of Design to help with computer sketching, packing, and other odds and ends. She uses novelty fabrics from Italy, and silks from Japan. The pattern in the silk blouse that Emily wore the day we met at Ivy Hill in the CWE, and in the dress shown above, is her own design. It takes a full year from fabric selection to shipment of finished product to the stores, so this young designer is always working in a different season. When we met she was about to ship the Spring line, but was working on her collection for the Fall season.  Emily travels to New York at least twice a month to oversee the production of her clothing in the Garment District. 

Hillary Dutcher, the proprietress of Ivy Hill, told me she has done very well with the Wai Ming line. Pieces from the 2012 Spring collection arrived at the neighborhood boutique last week. Pleated skirts are $140 to $180, blouses and tops, $130 to $150, dresses are $300 to $400. For now Emily is content selling to smaller venues, as she gets immediate feedback from their customers. While I don't want to guide you out of the neighborhood to shop, you can also find pieces of Wai Ming's Spring collection at Cha and Esther in St. Louis, Thread in Columbus, Ohio, and Roslyn in Chicago. Her lined was recently picked up by Searle in New York, and Thistle & Clover in Brooklyn.

It was great fun for me to talk to Emily last month and get an advance peek at her Spring collection. The world of fashion is such a tough business to break into, and I greatly admire this talented St. Louisan for following her passion and making a success of it. For more information, or to get on Wai Ming's mailing list, contact Emily at: info@waimingstudio.com.

 

Bonsai for Beginners

Whenever I travel to San Francisco I'm tempted to come home with a bonsai from a farmer's market, where there is usually a table full of them. But traveling with the plant, to say nothing of not knowing what to do with it next, always stops me in my tracks. Attending the "Bonsai for Beginners" workshop held at Bowood Farms a couple of Saturdays ago confirmed what I suspected about these "plant sculptures," ---there is a lot more to growing them than simply watering and taking an occasional snip. I also realized that it is more rewarding in the long run to take a starter plant and "train" it into a bonsai all by yourself.

During her introduction to the workshop Bowood Farms' Horticultural Manager Ellen Barredo said that a class on bonsai has been a frequent request of customers since the nursery opened six years ago. It was also a learning experience for the instructors, Sales Associates Kathy Hoyer and Kevin Sir (above), who studied bonsai extensively and then shared everything they learned with the workshop participants.

Kathy taught us that bonsai (pronounced "bone-sigh") is traditionally created from temperate species that prefer to be outdoors and need a winter dormancy period, i.e. Junipers, Maples, etc. However most gardeners are more interested in creating and caring for bonsai inside their homes. To this end tropical and subtropical plants that have characteristics that lend themselves to the art of bonsai indoors were the subject of the demonstration on February 11. Kathy suggested wikipedia (look here) for a terrific overview on the subject, and also that more information could be available from members of the St. Louis Bonsai Society, whom she has found to be extremely helpful. 
Sales Associate Kevin Sir, above, discussed the proper soil, watering and fertilizing frequency, and then demonstrated how to pot and train a bonsai "start" by snipping, pinching, and sometimes wiring (with 18-gauge wire) the branches to bend them into the desired shape. 

Because I didn't want to go to great expense for this bonsai experiment, I chose a $7 jade plant for my starter plant. I also really wanted to buy one of those cute flat bonsai dishes shown in the upper right corner of the photo above, and hoped to pop my jade plant right into it. Unfortunately, I learned you can't plant in the dish until the trunk has achieved the proper thickness, i.e. until the plant starts to look old.

If you want instant gratification and don't want to try your hand at training your own plant, check out the bonsai selection in Bowood Farm's Conservatory. You might also ask for the excellent instruction sheet that was handed out at the Bonsai Workshop---and definitely ask Kathy or Kevin for their expert advice.

Bowood Farms, 4605 Olive, (314) 454-6868.

Welcome "Dazzle Me Twice"

As I was gathering my thoughts in preparation for this post I realized how many times over the past year I have had the pleasure of introducing readers to a new business that has opened in the CWE. The fact that this comes to mind says much about these entrepreneurial individuals and the confidence they exhibit in the neighborhood by locating their businesses here.

Enter Dazzle Me Twice, a most elegant consignment salon that occupies two floors of a townhouse at 4632 McPherson at Walton (across from The Vino Gallery). Sweep whatever preconceived notions you may harbor about consignment (favorable or otherwise) away, Dazzle Me Twice is a consignment shop  in a class by itself---even better than "Finery," proprietor Marty London's previous shop in that location, which closed seven years ago.

Dazzle Me Twice carries designer label merchandise in excellent condition--many of the pieces have never been worn and wear their original tags. In the photo above Marty holds one of her favorite consignment pieces, a Fendi jacket, skirt & pants in size 6, $700. An article of clothing that has never been worn is priced at 50% off the original cost; gently worn, 25% of its original cost.

A sparkly gossamer-thin size 8 St. John Knit originally priced at $2000, is now $500. (Apologies for this "dazzling" photo, I forgot to turn off the flash.)

Marty opened her doors in late October and the response has been better than she expected. She explained that her "savvy customers love the 'thrill of the hunt' and know and appreciate the real thing." In this competitive market she's noticed that a customer might see something she likes, but will leave empty-handed to search for it online before inevitably returning to make the purchase at Dazzle Me Twice, where the prices are usually better.

Dazzle Me Twice carries designer accessories, including bags, belts, and shoes. One area is devoted entirely to evening wear. Marty stock includes gowns for special events around town, such as the Veiled Prophet Ball....a practical source for something that's worn only once or twice. For example, the midnight blue Jessica McClintock gown hanging on the column above is priced at $329.

There is a large selection of designer shoes in the salon, including a new pair of red & black Chanel platforms, above, size 8 1/2, $295.

If you have designer clothing to consign contact Marty London first (info is at the end of the post).  Dazzle Me Twice is not a full-time occupation for this busy woman. A former model and nurse, Marty is now the Assistant Manager of The Plaza in Clayton. For this reason her shop is only open Friday evenings and Saturdays.

As I was leaving the salon Marty asked me to mention that she enjoys hosting charity events at her salon. It's her way of giving back to the community now that she has had to resign from her charity boards for lack of time.  Contact Marty if you are interested in taking her up on this offer. You supply the cause and the guests; she'll provide the wine and hors d'oeuvres. She'll also donate a portion of the evening's sales to your charity. That's a win-win for everybody.

Dazzle Me Twice, 4632 McPherson, 5 to 8 Fridays, 10 to 4 Saturdays, finery6@yahoo.com, (314) 757-4464.

Valentine Red

Touches of red have popped up in shops throughout the neighborhood for Valentine's Day. At 10denza a slinky jersey dress with side slit from LA designer LNA is $172, 44 Maryland Plaza.

At AG, 36 Maryland Plaza, 20% of proceeds from a pima cotton & modal slip dress with uneven hem, $120, benefit the American Heart Association's "Go Red for Women."

 

Ooh la la--Hanky Panky panty, $18, at Moris Fashions, 26 Maryland Plaza.

 

 

 

 

 

Paul Mitchell The School, 30 Maryland Plaza, is also sponsoring the American Heart Association's "Go Red for Women" cause, left.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At Ivy Hill you'll find an Avoca "LOVE" wool throw, $59 (reduced from $85), and Trina Turk polyester and acetate crimson trousers, $248, 304 N. Euclid.

Kelsi Dagger gold studded platform heels, $139, a sequined clutch, $39, and a beaded cinch belt, $19 at Mary Jane's, 387 N. Euclid.

At Libby's, 4742 McPherson, a sleek silver and red-leather bracelet with rhinestone clasp, $25. 

Finally, Jennifer Walker's stunning sterling silver & enamel earrings, $59, 449 N. Euclid.

Meet Jennifer Ingram, The Apparel Doctor

Jennifer Ingram, above, has opened her alterations business, the Apparel Doctor, at 447 N. Euclid. Jennifer's neighborhood connection began years ago when she lived on West Pine and attended Rosati-Kain High School. When looking for a location for her business, she decided on the CWE because of its central location and the mix of residential and eclectic retail uses.

While attending SLU as a marketing major, Jennifer apprenticed at Seams Necessary on Page Avenue and fell in love with construction and alterations. She transferred to Washington University's School of Art and eventually earned a B.A. in Fashion Design. After graduation Jennifer worked as an assistant designer at May Merchandising on its private label brand.  In the small world department, a job at May Merchandising is also how Dawna Sturdivant of Borough Vintage (where the Apparel Doctor is located) found her way to St. Louis, though the two didn't know each other at the time.

After Federated Department Stores bought May Merchandising, Jennifer taught textiles, fashion merchandising and marketing courses at Sanford Brown College. Last October, Robin VerHage-Abrams the current Area Coordinator and Associate Professor in the Fashion Design program at Washington University's Sam Fox School of Art, invited Jennifer to teach design and construction to junior and senior Fashion Design majors. In addition to a work and teaching schedule most would find dizzying, Jennifer and her husband are raising three children, two-year-old twins and a four-year-old.  

Jennifer alters both men's and women's clothing. Jim and I have been extremely pleased with pieces she has altered for us. Examples of her prices are: hems $8 to $24, zippers $12 to $24, tapers $10 to $24, waist in & out (this about sums it up, doesn't it?) $10 to $14. Jennifer also makes custom clothing, including special occasion dresses for bridesmaids (she shies away from bridal gowns, as bridal jitters make her nervous). Prices depend on labor and do not include the cost of material.  Check out the Apparel Doctor's website for more information on her services, including pickup and delivery for a small mileage surcharge.

As a supporter of the "shop local" movement, Jennifer offers a discount on alterations to clothing purchased in the CWE. Just keep the tags on the clothing.

P.S. - Missing a button? Ask Dawna of Borough Vintage to show you her large collection of buttons---you're bound to find a match, or something close.

The Apparel Doctor, located inside Borough Vintage at 447 N. Euclid at Washington, Fridays from 1-6 p.m., Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., Sun. through Thurs. by appointment, (314) 884-0739.